Finally, Paint Coatings for Each and Every Job
The right kind of coating is vital. If you pick the wrong paint, it will not matter how much time and money you spend on your project. Too many perfectly great paint projects deteriorate too early because the incorrect primer and paint were used.
A dependable guideline is to match the existing covering. If you're painting or staining on top of latex paint, recoat with latex. You might have a variety of choices if the surface is uncoated, but you still need to consider environment, maintenance, and toughness to find the best coating for for the project.
Primers Are an Exciting Paint Product
Primer is the unsung hero of any quality paint job. It determines how well the surface is protected and exactly how long the paint can last. Knowing when to use primers screws up painters about nearly as much as which primers to work with. Basically, you need to use a primer when you are coating a new or bare surface; changing colors, textures, or finishes; or making a surface more uniform. About really the only time you don't need to prime is when you're recoating with the same paint and finish over a solid paint, for example, a flat latex paint over another flat latex paint.
To ensure compatibility, choose a product that's part of your paint system. By paint system I am saying a primer and top layer produced by the same company. The labels of better paints always recommend specific primers and top coats for various materials and conditions. If you don't want to cope with reading the fine print, ask to see the spec, or data sheet, on a specific primer. In case a spec sheet isn't available, ask to see what's known as a “specifier’s guide,” although these guides probably have significantly more information than you will ever need and you might need help translating some of the terms and specifications.
Primers form an even foundation for the top coats by penetrating, sealing, and bonding to all types of bare areas. Without first priming a fresh or reconditioned surface, you'll find that the top coats end up flaking off much earlier than you'll expect. While you may use additives such as Emulsabond, don't make the mistake of convinced that primers are optional, or can be made out of diluted paint.
Usually in one coat most primers even out surfaces and places which may have been scraped and sanded. Sometimes a surface will require a second coat of primer to ensure a smooth undercoat, but often one will do. The house pictured below is an exemplory case of a project where two coatings of primer were used. The bare wood siding was primed with an oil-based primer for extra adhesion. Then, a latex primer was applied over all the siding to provide it a level base for the finish layers. Some climates almost demand another coat of primer. I've heard of one contractor in Florida who always double primes to ensure that his work last. If you live close to salt water, I would recommend that you consider doing the same.
Primers highlight surface conditions by pointing out imperfections such as loose fibers in drywall and raised wood grain in trim. You might feel that a primer would even out a surface, but if you run your hand over a primed portion of trim it always feels abrasive. That's because primer forces out loose grain as it penetrates. After a dried primer has been lightly sanded, the smoothed surface is ready for layer. (Here is a tip: If you tint your primer the color of the finish coat, you can actually quicken the painting process by minimizing the amount of top layers needed. Tinting is mainly used for color changes, although it's also handy for surfaces like bare drywall.)
Improve Your Priming For Interior Surfaces and Ceilings
I recommend using latex primers whenever we can. Ask your paint dealer for advice on the best primer for interior trouble spots, including the laundry room and bath, that require a good sealant and a water-resistant primer. I've always used alkyd primers in wetter areas of the house, although there are excellent latex primers that seal equally well. I prime most drywall interiors with latex, especially the bed rooms, living room, and closets. I usually spray a latex primer on new construction because new properties have sufficient vapor barriers. Also, I could paint an oil-based top coat over latex primer.
Older houses require room-by-room decisions on what primer to utilize. If the home does not have a vapor barrier or good ventilation, you will need a primer that seals the walls and keeps moisture content from getting between the surface and the paint.
Latex stain blockers and sealers may be the answer to priming wet rooms in your residence. These quick drying primers help condition surfaces with water, smoke, and tannin spots, plus they can be recoated very quickly, sometimes within the hour. Pittsburgh's Seal Grip is a great latex stain blocker with few VOCs and all the advantages of an oil-based stain blocker. Quick drying alkyd primers such as Kilz have pigmented shellac (with high VOCs) that also serves as a stain killer and sealer, but I don't recommend these for latex top coats, the shellac might show through the latex. In case your latex has what's known as “good hold" or hiding properties, it'll maintain an even sheen over primer. You are able to assure compatibility by using a high quality latex stain blocker such as Seal Grip.
When it comes to walls, remember that plaster and drywall are different. Plaster is highly alkaline, particularly when it's new, and it can leach alkaline salts if it is not properly sealed. There are many primers you can use on plaster, depending on its condition and on the top coating and finish you've planned.
Drywall is much less alkaline than plaster. I usually prime drywall with a latex primer, unless the top coatings will be an oil-based paint, in which particular case I'll use an alkyd primer. (I understand that there are perfectly good latex primers for just about any type of top layer, but old behaviors are hard to let go of.) When painting new drywall, I'll sometimes add joint compound to the primer for a little texture. Blended with primer, joint compound also helps even out over any sanding markings or roughness.
Primers For Interior Wood
When selecting primer, you should think about the nature and condition of the surface, the sort of paint (alkyd, latex, or epoxy) that is planned for the top coats, and the sort of finish (flat, semi-gloss, or glossy).
Frequently I prime interior trim with an exterior alkyd primer, which seals new wood and replaces lost wetness in older wood. There are also good water-based enamel primers for interior wood. Special conditions, including the high moisture common in bathrooms and kitchens, may call for a breathable latex primer if you cannot prime all over the wood. If you can completely prime the wood before it goes up, an alkyd primer will protect the majority of the wood trim from dampness. Assess conditions like these carefully and seek the advice of a specialist if your job has many different variables
Amazing Primers For Exteriors
Even though I prefer latex paint for the exterior, I still prefer to use alkyd primers on exterior wood. They simply do a much better job of priming bare wood. I'll use an alkyd primer if I know that the house has no major internal vapor problems and that the wood is in good condition (which usually means that it's new), particularly if I have access to the siding and wood trim before it is attached to the building. It's always better to seal all around the wood (however, not the ends) to give each piece its vapor barrier.
New redwood and cedar siding, as well as hardboard siding, needs special attention. Redwood and cedar will bleed tannins for a long time, even if the wood has air-dried for months. Before priming, you should wash out the tannin with a gentle detergent, and follow this with a good rinsing. Redwood and cedar are fairly porous, so you might need to hold back a day or two to let them dry out. There's a good chance that more tannin resin will seep to the outside, so avoid priming with latex because the resin will bleed through. Instead, use two coatings of an alkyd primer/sealer, and use high quality latex for the final coats. Any staining that happens after that can usually be washed off with special wood cleaners.
Hardboard siding, new or already coated, presents a particular challenge. Having less grain or anything resembling a porous surface makes hardboards such as Masonite difficult to bond to. In the event the wood is new then pressure wash and rinse it. If water still beads up, wash it again to eliminate all the wax. Seal new hardboard with a specially produced hardboard primer/sealer, such as Pittsburgh Paints Permanizer Plus Wood Stabilizer. When mixed with a top layer, Emulsabond makes a great hardboard primer. These and other high quality sealers also work well on aluminum or vinyl siding, plywood veneers, textured wood, and other composite sidings.
Improved Metal Primers
Every metallic should be cleaned of oil, grease, rust, or any other residue before you prime it, therefore the primer gets thorough attachment with the area. Most metal areas can be cleaned with a good thinner. Galvanized metals sometimes come from the factory with a stabilizer that may be tough to eliminate, and could need more than simply thinner. Consult with your paint store if you would like to be certain a primer will work on new galvanized steel surfaces.
You will find primers for every kind of metal. Ferrous metals, manufactured from iron and steel, should be primed with a rust inhibitor. Rust is almost impossible to completely remove unless you sandblast it, and even then small pockets of rust can stay that will grow back again under an unsealed surface or the incorrect primer. Rust inhibitors totally seal the surface from contact with air. Some companies make reference to these primers as direct-to-rust or direct-to-metal (DTM) primers. Smaller jobs like handrails can be primed with aerosol rust inhibitors such as Pratt & Lambert's Effecto Spray Enamel, which I've had success using.
Other metals, including copper, aluminum, bronze, and brass, should be covered with zinc-chromate primer. Some paint companies have a particular primer for new galvanized metal. Older galvanized steel can be primed with a rust inhibitor like those mentioned previously.
As with any top coating, the additional time the primer has to flow and contact the surface, the better the adhesion. Quick setting primers don't flow much by any means and stay right where they're applied, for better or for worse. A clean surface is especially important when using an instant drying primer. Note that some paint manufacturers recommend cleaning metals (and most other surfaces) with a thinner, while other companies suggest against using any kind of solvent cleaner. Read the directions carefully.
A vintage technique that still is effective for cleaning new or old metals is washing the outer layer with a one-to-one mix of vinegar and water. Vinegar is an all-purpose, inexpensive cleaner that will also etch a steel material if mixed at that ratio. Etching metal works like sanding wood. It gives the surface "teeth" for better adhesion. That same ratio is useful for new rain gutters or uncoated aluminum siding. However, it should not be utilized to clean galvanized metals, because the vinegar will damage the galvanizing.
Priming Solution For Masonry Applications
Whether it's inside or out, masonry usually needs a primer or sealer that will resist water and alkalis. Alkalis are salts that leach out over time, leaving a chalky stain called efflorescence. The source of the efflorescence, usually water, must be cured for alkali-resistant primers and sealers to help. New masonry must cure for 90 days before you prime and paint it, especially if it's highly alkaline, like stucco.
Sherwin Williams has a masonry primer called Loxon that withstands alkalinity up to pH 13; it can be coated on masonry that is seven days old. Stucco, which is basically colored mortar and filled with lime, is a great surface for Loxon, as is new plaster or poured concrete. Pittsburgh Paints also offers a primer for new, high-alkaline masonry, called Speedhide Alkali Resistant Primer; it's made for oil-based paint. Additionally you can add this primer to cured masonry with a latex top coating, but it is important that you use latex only on low alkaline masonry. In these situations I've had success adding Emulsabond to the latex for extra adhesion. I would recommend it for most masonry applications.
Etching with muriatic acid used to be the only way to speed up the curing time of cement. You could still etch if you are so willing, although if I never see another container of muriatic acid, that would be just fine. (If it etches concrete, imagine how well it etches epidermis!) Etching takes a bucket, hose, brush, gloves, and complete eye and skin protection, don't forget a respirator, in particular when you mix the acid with the water. Important: Add the acid to water, not the other way around. In the event that you add water to acid it will splash and burn off anything it contacts. And mix it in the correct ratio, usually 1:3. Be sure you have brushes, sponges, towels, and least one 5 gallon bucket of clean water for emergencies, and another 5 gallon bucket for rinsing.
Reconditioning older, peeling concrete floors can be a chore. It's best to keep them well taken care of and recoat them regularly, before they have to be completely redone. Cement flooring surfaces in really sad condition should be sandblasted, or you can use a new system called Peel-Away which makes prepping masonry a bit easier (it's still no picnic). If the surface is in good shape, prep the floor and remove any trace of grease or wax with a good thinner.
For new concrete floors, I recommend a concrete stain created by H&C or Okon; they come in water based and silicone acrylic. My choice is the water based stain, since silicon is a wax that eventually will wash off. Cement stain penetrates and seals without needing scraping or sandblasting, and resists fading better than a top finish like latex.
Older, pre-painted concrete floors have to be repainted with a similar top overcoat, whether latex or alkyd. A latex top coating is best applied over a typical concrete sealer, but Emulsabond also is effective. An oil-based top coating requires an oil-based enamel or epoxy concrete conditioner. I'd add Penetrol to the primer for an extended lasting bond.
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